Compared to most other consumer industries, the luxury watch industry evolves at an extremely slow pace. Take the mechanical watch, for example. Aside from constant technological improvements and changing tastes, the luxury replica watches we wear have barely changed in decades. But when did this start? The “standard” modern mechanical watch as we know it (i.e. automatic movement, date display, and at least splash resistance) appeared in the 1950s. It’s a representative example, marking a transitional decade. This decade saw the birth of the modern dive watch, the widespread popularity of automatic watches, and the shift from pure elegance to more sporty performance.
Today’s “Time Machine” watches incorporate almost all of the innovations of the 50s. Such watches would still look relevant in a modern brand lineup, while still exuding the charm and sophistication of the era. For example, this circa 1952 Omega Seamaster Calendar ref. 2627-7SC, while not hugely innovative in itself, its combination of durability, functionality, and pure vintage charm makes it a fascinating snapshot of the evolution of the modern luxury watch.
Frankly, there was little groundbreaking about the replica Omega Seamaster Calendar ref. 2627 when it debuted in 1952. Waterproof cases had been in development for decades by then, and the Seamaster line itself (which was designed to be more dressy and a far cry from today’s tool-like Seamaster) had been introduced as early as 1948. The concept of a bumper-style automatic movement dates back to 1923. To make matters worse, the Seamaster Calendar’s date display had also been pre-empted by archrival fake Rolex, which claimed the first automatic watch with a date function with its 1945 Datejust brand.
Nevertheless, the watch was the first watch Omega had ever produced with an automatic date function. This unique combination of attributes – automatic movement, date display, and waterproof case – would go on to become the standard for luxury timepieces.
The stainless steel case of the Seamaster Perpetual Calendar 2627-7SC is 35.5mm wide, reflecting the dressier, more sophisticated tastes of the period. However, it was still a solid sporty design for the early 50s. Angular claw lugs lend a sense of presence to this demure, simple case, while the tall, domed crystal gives the watch some visual weight on the wrist. The signed screw-down pillbox crown, a relative rarity for the era, gives the Seamaster Calendar 30 meters of water resistance, which was quite impressive in the pre-dive watch era. While it may not be anywhere near the level of a modern dive watch, it is clear that beneath its ornate exterior, this was a well-designed watch for the time. From the chunky screw-down case to the domed acrylic crystal, this watch was built to early 50s standards and was an early precursor to the modern general-purpose sports watch. It is not difficult to find that the Omega Seamaster replica is very popular in the UK.
The tightly patterned texture on the dial of the affordable fake Omega Seamaster Perpetual Calendar ref. 2627-7SC adds impressive depth and character to the classic 50s layout. Aside from the dial face itself, the watch displays what one would expect from an early 50s Seamaster – thick, bright faceted arrow hour markers, aged rose gold accents, the classic “horseshoe-style” Omega logo at 12 o’clock, gorgeous warm gilt dial text, and luminous prince hands showing the patina of over 70 years of aging.
What stands out is the date display at 6 o’clock. As Omega’s first attempt at making an automatic watch with a date display, the Omega replica watch used a wide gold window that tilts inwards, paired with warm round, medieval-style Arabic numerals, giving it a sense of regal grandeur.
The evolution of modern luxury watches is slow and famously resistant to change. Yet, within this slow, gradual process, we can look back and find key moments that changed the course of this evolution. The counterfeit Omega Seamaster Calendar reference 2627-7SC is one of those moments – while not necessarily a first in any respect, its combination of features would go on to become the standard well into the future. In addition to being a beacon in the watchmaking industry, this watch has a classic aesthetic that wears on the wrist as attractively as it did more than 70 years ago. In the end, it is a poignant reminder to watch lovers that history is not just about firsts, and sometimes the most interesting pieces in watchmaking history emerge precisely in between these milestones.
